Top makeup artists on what not to do if you want
younger-looking skin?and the tricks that really work.



THICK FOUNDATION


"Heavy makeup is a one-way ticket to looking older than you actually
are," says makeup artist Chrisanne Davis. Choose a sheer foundation or
tinted moisturizer, and after you apply it, press a damp makeup sponge into
areas where you have wrinkles to soak up any excess. While the less-is-more
maxim may seem counterintuitive, "the more skin you can see, the
better," says makeup artist Sandy Linter. "As long as it is
well-hydrated, fresh skin looks much more youthful than an obviously covered
complexion."


BASE THAT'S TOO LIGHT


Foundation that's paler than your natural skin tone exaggerates fine lines.
"Even if you have ivory skin, you need to go a little bit warmer as you
get older," says Linter. Switch to a hue that's one or two shades darker
and has luminescent particles: "A light-reflective formula makes the skin look like it's glowing," says Davis.


HEAVY CONCEALER ON DARK CIRCLES


The skin under the eyes gets thinner as we age, making thick cover-up look
like concrete. Keep it light, and apply it with a brush. "The brush
distributes the color more evenly," says Linter. And put it only on dark
areas, not under the entire eye.


FACE POWDER ON TOP OF LINES


Powder is fine for reducing shine on the nose and the chin, but on other
parts of the face it exaggerates wrinkles and can make skin look too dry, says
Linter. The only time Linter dusts powder on clients over 40 is when she knows
they're being professionally photographed (a loose translucent formula does
help cut glare), but even then, one unbreakable rule still applies: Avoid the
eye area completely.


BLUSH ON THE APPLES OF THE CHEEKS


It draws attention to sagging skin. Instead, apply color on the highest
point on your cheekbones, not too close to the nose, and lift it upward with a
brush that's large enough to cover the whole cheekbone. Skip the drama queen
shades, too: "Colors like wine and cinnamon will only make you look gaunt
if you're thin and clownish if you're not," says Linter. "A neutral
rose color flatters all skin tones and really brightens things up."


LIPSTICK THAT MIGRATES


Your natural lip line can begin to fade as you age, which makes lipstick
more prone to bleeding and feathering. "Tracing it with one of the new
clear lip liners can help the color stay put," Davis says.


MAJOR LIPSTICK


Bright colors, dark shades, and anything metallic or iridescent are too
heavy for thinning lips. Instead, choose a neutral rose shade. And consider
switching from a lipstick to a sheer gloss?it will give you more fullness.


MASCARA ON THE LOWER LASHES


It highlights crow's-feet. And dark circles. And it just generally looks bad.
Coat your top lashes with the blackest black mascara you can find?"it will
make the whites of your eyes look clearer and whiter," Linter says. It's
also best to avoid superthick formulas that don't separate easily. Lashes get
dryer as we age, making mascara more likely to clump and fall onto your face.
And don't forget your curler. "Curling your lashes is the easiest thing
you can do to make your eyes look bigger?and therefore younger," says Davis.


EYELINER ON THE LOWER LASHES


All that does is make your eyes look smaller and draw attention to dark
circles. Stick to the upper lids?and make the line thicker toward the outer
corners, where eyes have a tendency to droop as we age.


SPARKLY SHADOW ON THE OUTER CORNERS


A little shimmer is flattering and keeps eye makeup from looking too stark,
but at the outer corners, it magnifies every fine line. Restrict sparkle and
shimmer to the inner corners, the centers of the lids, and just on the brow
bones.

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